UK’s ‘overlooked’ seaside village is home to country’s best pub

For many tourists, the journey west to popular Welsh holiday destinations such as Tenby, Saundersfoot, or St David’s often overlooks a small village off the dual carriageway.

Llansteffan, located just outside Carmarthen, is a hidden gem boasting a vast beach, an impressive castle and a fantastic pub and restaurant, all set within some of Wales’ most beautiful countryside.

Although it may not feature prominently in guidebooks, Llansteffan can hold its own against any of Wales’ more famous seaside locations, offering equal parts beauty and tranquillity.

This delightful estuary village on the River Tywi, just one inlet away from Dylan Thomas’ retreat Laugharne, promises enjoyable days filled with exploration, historical adventures, gourmet dining or simply savouring fish and chips on the beach.

Much like the rest of the Welsh coast, Llansteffan offers a wonderful mix of coastal walks for those who enjoy the sensation of sand between their toes, and woodland paths, with views of sparkling water (on a sunny day!) and the smell of sea air all around.

From the waterfront car park, you can set up camp on the beach, with amenities nearby. However, be mindful of the tide, as it moves quickly in this area, according to Wales Online.

If you’re looking for a more secluded spot and the tide is out, Scott’s Bay is a great option. However, be sure to check the tide times before you go.

The village offers a variety of local delights, including Florries chip shop and a charming tea shop on the front. It is also home to the Inn at the Sticks, which has been named as Wales’ winner in The Good Food Guide’s Best Local Restaurants 2024.

The Llansteffan Landmark, a pub since 1809, originally operated as the Union Hall Inn before becoming a hotel in 1881. It was designated as a Grade II listed building in 2002 and was acquired by its current owners last year.

They have carefully refurbished both the bar and the inn, preserving its historic character.

Now, over 200 years since it first opened its doors, the Llansteffan Landmark has been recognised as the best local restaurant in Wales. Managed by partners Teej and Jenks (with Teej previously from Cardiff’s Curado bar), their restaurant features specials that highlight the best from both land and sea.

Inn at the Sticks is a cosy, welcoming pub that prides itself on championing Welsh produce and crafting its menu around seasonal offerings. The ‘From The Sea’ section celebrates the bounty of Welsh seafood, featuring prawns, mackerel, and cockles.

The ‘Land’ section offers traditional classics like faggots and Welsh beef, while the ‘Garden’ section provides plentiful meat-free choices, all highlighting Welsh ingredients.

You can book a table here.

To walk off a wonderful meal, the majestic Llansteffan Castle is just a 10-minute walk from the waterfront car park. This castle, built during Norman times, encapsulates an Iron Age fort dating back to 600 BC.